Most dogs learn the Dig Board in a few short sessions. The secret is to keep it fun, keep it short, and reward often. Here’s the step-by-step method we recommend.
Before you start
- Pick small, smelly treats your dog loves, cut into pea-sized pieces.
- Place the board on a non-slip surface, like a rug, a yoga mat or the silicone mat that comes with the Complete Kit, so it doesn’t slide.
- Train when your dog is relaxed and a little hungry, not right after a meal.
- Keep sessions to 2–5 minutes. Always stop while your dog still wants more.
Step 1: Make the board a good thing
Set the board on the floor and put a treat on top. Let your dog sniff and eat it. Repeat a few times until your dog walks up to the board happily.
Step 2: Reward any paw touch
Hold a treat just above the board, or place one on it and cover it lightly with your hand. The moment a paw touches the board, say “yes!” and give the treat. Some dogs paw naturally; others need a few tries.
Step 3: Build up to a scratch
Start rewarding only the scratching or digging motions, not just touches. At first, one scratch earns a treat. Gradually ask for two or three scratches before you reward.
Step 4: Bring in the treat drawer
Pull out the lid by its cord, drop a treat into the drawer, and slide it closed so your dog can smell it. When your dog scratches the surface, slide the drawer open as the reward. This is where most dogs “get it”.
Step 5: Make it a routine
A few short sessions a week are usually enough to keep front nails in shape. Check their nails as you go: if they’re shorter than you want, simply use the board less often.
Keep the scratching on the board
Dogs quickly learn that scratching only pays off in one place, as long as you keep the rules clear:
- Give it a cue word, like “dig”, and only reward scratching on the board.
- Put the board away after each session, so it stays a special game rather than something to scratch any time.
- Never reward scratching anywhere else. If your dog scratches a door or wall, calmly redirect them to something else, without treats or extra attention.
Bonus: back paws
Back nails usually wear down faster on walks, so many dogs need them trimmed less often. If yours do need attention, you can teach a separate back-paw trick once your dog is confident with the front-paw game. Most dogs need a bit more patience here.
- Lean the board at an angle against a low, sturdy step or ottoman, with the drawer lid closed. Make sure it can’t slip.
- Hold a treat just above the step so your dog puts their front paws up on it. Their back feet will now be right next to the board.
- Reward any movement of a back leg toward the board, even a tiny shuffle. Over several sessions, only reward real scratches.
- Keep these sessions extra short, and always finish on a success.
Troubleshooting
- My dog noses the board instead of pawing. Hold the treat slightly above and in front of the board so pawing is the easier move, and only reward paws.
- My dog gives up quickly. Make it easier: reward every scratch again for a session or two, then build back up.
- The board slides around. Put it on a rug or non-slip mat, or hold one corner steady with your hand.
- My dog has started scratching the door. Put the board away between sessions, stop rewarding scratching anywhere else, and only use your cue word when the board is out.
- My dog seems unsure or worried. Go back to Step 1 and keep sessions very short. There’s no rush.
Safety tips
- Always supervise your dog while using the board.
- Check paw pads now and then. If you notice redness or irritation, take a break and ask your vet.
- Dewclaws don’t touch the board, so they may still need an occasional trim.
Still stuck? Send us a message on our Contact page. We’re happy to help, and you’re always covered by our 30-day money-back guarantee.